We learn how to fish with rubber bands and assemble gear correctly. How to sew in an elastic band - four ways (in step-by-step master classes) Where are elastic bands used?

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HOW TO SEW IN AN ELASTIC BAND - FOUR WAYS (in step-by-step master classes).

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Good afternoon. Today I decided to write a separate special article on how to competently and correctly sew elastic into clothes. The article was written specifically for beginners in sewing, and therefore I will show everything in detailed step-by-step pictures. And I will give a more detailed explanation of how to sew in an elastic band in each of the FOUR WAYS.

Yes, yes, in this article I posted everything FOUR ways to sew in elastic. And for those who have a modern machine. And for those who have an old hand-made Singer, and even for those who do not have a sewing machine, I will tell you how to sew in an elastic band by hand.

NOTE METHOD evenly sewing in the elastic (for those with a machine without a zigzag stitch).
Manual method of sewing in elastic (for those who do not have a machine)
ZIGZAG METHOD sewing in the elastic (without pulling it during the sewing process, but only after sewing)
STANDARD METHOD sewing in elastic (for any machine)
BOBBIN METHOD(it will help to sew an elastic thread on a regular sewing machine)

I have already talked about some of this in. But I wanted to consider all possible cases of using elastic bands in clothes. And give a more detailed and understandable method of sewing them to clothes.

But before that, we will proceed directly to our lesson. I want to inspire you with beautiful pictures of clothing models using elastic bands. You can sew stitching into all these clothing models yourself following the lessons from this article.

So let's admire, and therefore let's learn.

Elastic on shoulders

This is the most common use of elastic on tunics and off-the-shoulder dresses. The pattern of such a product is always a modification of a truncated pattern - when the shoulder line and the top of the sleeve cap are cut off.

Elastic band on hips

Serves to provide a slight allowance for free-flowing fabric above the hip line and wavy fabric below the elastic line.

Elasticated waist

It is used when you need to fit a product without a belt while maintaining the splendor of the folds both above and below the elastic line.

Elastic band under the bust

More often found on loose, fluffy tunics, and serves to emphasize the chest, while maintaining freely flowing pomp in all other places.

Elastic on shoulders, waist, sleeves

Creates a gentle image of an airy peasant blouse.

Elastic sewn vertically

Ideal for creating horizontally directed draperies.

Elastic on the chest

Most often, it is used to rubberize the entire upper part of the tunic - both on the front and on the back.

Elastic on the back

Or sometimes only the back area and (if available) sleeves are treated with elastic thread.

Elastic on sleeves

The sleeves are also partially rubberized for decorative purposes - in the cuff or shoulder area.

And, of course, sometimes in all of the above cases, fashion designers can replace the elastic with ordinary non-elastic twine pulled into a simple drawstring.

The fabric will also gather and fit, but such gathering on twine, of course, will not give elasticity.

Well, now let’s proceed directly to our master classes on sewing in elastic.

You and I will often model a tunic, dress, hat or swimsuit that will have an elastic band. And we will need to sew it in. There are two types of rubber bands...

2 types of rubber bands

Regular elastic bands(that is, simple underwear elastic bands) They come in different tight and soft ones, with lace or frilly, figured, etc. Elastic bands can be sewn on by hand or by machine.
Elastic threads(elastic threads) - they are sold in the form of spools (the same as threads). The thread itself is a rubber fiber wrapped in a spiral with a hebesh thread. Such elastic threads can only be sewn on a machine. Although…. if the fabric has a small hole, then they can be sewn into the dress even with a regular crochet hook. Or manually thread it through the holes.

No matter what elastic bands we sew in, in any case we will need to follow 2 rules.

2 rules for sewing elastic bands:

Rule 1: when sewing on an elastic band, you must try not to tear the rubber veins inside the elastic band with a needle. Otherwise, the elastic band may become deformed and lose its elasticity over time. This happened in one of my daughter’s purchased dresses and I had to change the elastic.

In order for the needle to pierce the rubber veins of the elastic to a minimum, you must try so that it goes through as much as possible between rubber cores elastic tape.

Or a zigzag stitch - it is more gentle, because... The stitches jump over the central elastic fibers of the elastic.

Rule 2: The elastic must be sewn with uniform tension along its entire sewing length. Otherwise, we may end up with a dress that is tightly gathered in one place, and only a couple of folds in another.

How to ensure uniform tension of the elastic along the entire length of the sewing? There are several ways. We will now look at all these ways to evenly sew elastic bands into clothes.

STITCH METHOD - for those who only have a simple stitch on their machine.

or for those who will sew the elastic on by hand.

I called this method “basting” because we will divide the elastic and the dress into equal sections, and each section of the elastic will be basted along the edges to its own section on the sewing line - this is necessary for uniform sewing of the elastic.

I will display this method in the picture so that everything is clear. The whole stage of work is based on the example of this dress with an elastic waist.

You can see that the dress is loose-fitting and has an elastic band sewn into it at the waist level. Not in a very tight stretch - but to give the dress soft folds. It looks beautiful on flowing fabric. The detail of the dress (the pink part) into which the elastic is sewn is shown in Fig. 1.

Now we will see all the stages of work on UNIFORMLY sewing elastic under tension.

Step one - draw a sewing line for the elastic band.

Find the elastic sewing line - draw it directly on the fabric with chalk or a pencil (Figure 1).

Step two - find the desired length of the elastic band.

We take an elastic band and wrap it tightly around our waist. Not a tight stretch, but a comfortable one, so that it presses but does not squeeze. Cut off this piece of elastic.

And immediately divide it in half - half will be sewn to the front part. The second half goes to the back detail.

We see (in Fig. 3) that when relaxed, the elastic is much shorter than its sewing line. That's how it should be. Because we will sew it under tension (Fig. 4) and after sewing, it will shrink and pull the fabric into uniform gathers.

Step three - divide the sewing line into sections that are convenient to hold with two fingers.

Now let’s remember the ancient Russian measure of length - span. This is the distance from the protruding large dress to the index. It is in this two-fingered way that we will stretch the elastic under the machine foot when we sew it on.

Therefore, we divide the sewing line for the future elastic on the dress into spans. Directly with your hand - we walk along the line with spans and mark the boundaries of the spans with chalk.

Step four - transfer the marks to the stretched elastic band.

Now we stretch the elastic next to our sewing line and transfer the same marks with a pencil to it. It is convenient to do this on the carpet - press one edge of the elastic with the heel of your foot, pull the second edge of the elastic with your left hand, and use your right hand to draw strokes with a pencil.

Step five - sew the marks on the elastic to the marks on the dress.

Now we release the rubber bands with marks. We sit down on the sofa and calmly sew the elastic to the sewing line IN THE PLACES OF THE MARKS - that is, manually using a needle and thread we fix the mark on the elastic with a similar mark on the line of the dress with 3-4 stitches.

Step six - attach the elastic to the sewing line.

We have fixed all the marks and now you can put the product under the presser foot. We stretch the first piece of elastic between the marks with two fingers of our right hand - the fabric is aligned, the elastic is in tension - and we sew with a regular line or a zigzag stitch.

We sewed one section - we stopped the machine, the needle was down in the belly of the machine and the foot was lowered (so as not to move from the line) - we pulled on the next piece of elastic and sewed again.

An easy way to sew an elastic band BY MANUAL (without a machine) is by stretching it on the edge of the table

Yes, yes, elastic bands can even be sewn in by hand - if the fabric is variegated or bouclé, that is, it is not afraid of crooked stitches, for the reason that they are simply not noticeable on it. Moreover, after sewing the elastic, the fabric at the sewing site will wrinkle greatly and all the stitches (no matter how crooked they may be) will be hidden in wrinkles and folds.

I sewed my first peasant blouse with elastic at a time when I was still afraid of a sewing machine. I used the same method of drawing marks on the elastic and on the fabric that I described above. The only difference is that when sewing, I did not put the fabric under the machine foot. I simply stretched the fabric with a span on the edge of the table (to make it easier to pry with a needle and thread) and sewed it tight with ties. The fabric tightened and hid the crooked stitches.

In one evening I had an exclusive item, absolutely handmade.

ZIGZAG METHOD- simplest. Suitable for both regular elastic and elastic thread.

This method is generally the easiest for those who have a zigzag stitch on their machine. And it can even be done manually - after all, a zigzag stitch can be done manually

This method can be used to sew elastic thread, so elastic band.

It is remarkable in that even an ordinary underwear elastic will be sewn evenly - and there is no need to make any fixation marks.

I’ll show you how this happens in pictures.

Step one - create a sample of the ideal piece of elastic.

We also start by wrapping the elastic band around the waist, choosing the optimal tension for us. Cut off this rubber girth. And we cut it in half - but we will not sew on this particular half.

She will serve as a model for us later. Now you will see and understand everything.

Step two - sew a wide zigzag behind the edges of the long elastic band.

Take a new piece of elastic the same length as the width of the product or longer.

We place it under the machine foot and select a zigzag stitch such that the zigzag step is wide enough and the needle never touches the elastic itself, but makes a zigzag, piercing the fabric a few millimeters from the elastic - Fig. 13.

That is, as you already guessed, we need the elastic band to move freely inside the zigzag.

Step three - try on the sample elastic band to the elastic band under the zigzag.

And when the entire elastic band is under the zigzag, we put our sample next to each other and make 2 marks on the elastic band under the zigzag - at the same distance as the edges of the sample segment - fig. 14.

Step four - tighten the zigzag elastic band to the desired length.

Now we pull the ears of this “zigzag” elastic band until the marks are near the edges of the product. There they need to be fixed - that is, manually sewn to the edges of the product with several strong stitches.

All is ready. By the way, you can do this zigzag manually - it’s very convenient and fast.

Under such a zigzag - but with a smaller stitch pitch, of course - you can also place elastic threads. You also put an elastic thread on the elastic sewing line. And in the same way, you cover it on top with a zigzag stitch - without piercing the elastic thread itself anywhere. And then we tighten the elastic thread inside this zigzag to the degree of tightness we need.

You can also place the elastic not under the zigzag stitch, but under a specially sewn strip of fabric - that is, a drawstring. Here's the method:

THE ROCKET METHOD is very simple and suitable for any machine.

We measure the length of the elastic sewing line with a centimeter (Fig. 17). We measure a strip of fabric (Fig. 18) of the same length. The width of the strip should be sufficient for our elastic to be hidden in the future drawstring - that is, the width of the elastic + seam allowances is equal.

We sew the drawstring to the line of passage of the future elastic - Fig. 19. And we pull our elastic into the resulting “tunnel” - that is, the drawstring.

We pull it in using a safety pin - we pin it on one end of the elastic and pull it through, feeling the pin inside the drawstring with our fingers, pushing it forward, wrinkling the fabric along the pin. The pin is slippery and fits well under the fabric, and pulls the elastic along with it.

To prevent the back end of the elastic from slipping inside the drawstring, it is better to first sew it to the entrance edge of the drawstring. And then, when the forward tip of the elastic appears on the other side of the drawstring, it will also need to be sewn firmly to the outlet hole of the drawstring.

Then the elastic will be firmly fixed at both ends of the drawstring and will never pop out.

WE SEW IN RUBBER THREADS - on a regular machine with a simple line.

It's about BOBBIN METHOD OF SEWING elastic threads. This method is suitable for any machine. You need a spool of regular non-stretch threads and a spool of elastic threads.

We wind the elastic band onto the bobbin with a slight stretch (then we will tighten it at the line, if necessary).

And we thread a regular thread on top - and make sufficient relaxation in its tension. Practice on a piece of fabric - we need to select the tension of the upper thread so that it forms small loops on the wrong side.

That is, the elastic thread from the shuttle will not be pressed into the fabric by the top thread, but will lie freely inside the loops.

When the stitching is completed from edge to edge, you can safely tighten the elastic thread to the desired tightness. It will move calmly inside the loose loops of regular thread.

As you can see, there are a lot of ways to quickly and easily, and most importantly correctly, sew elastic bands into your product.

Happy sewing!

For securing synthetic threads, elastic, spandex and fishing line better use the following nodes:

Surgical knot:

Look like him Academic node:

Also reliable Flemish knot:

Another knot that is very difficult to untie is Water node, suitable for elastic:

Also good for fishing line and synthetics Furrier's knot:

Excellent Liana Knot:

These knots are all well suited for jewelry, but have different sizes, volumes and patterns. If this is not important for the thin thread that I use, then for a round thick elastic band or waxed cord it can be important, so before making the product, it is better to practice on a piece of thread.

Now a few words about the nodes that should not be used:

Oak knot don't come near t for securing synthetic threads and fishing line. When tensioned, it slides easily and comes undone:

Also not suitable Babi knot, although it is so common in everyday life. He will not be able to hold the elastic at all:

Just as insidious Mother-in-law's knot, also not for our purposes:

Weaving knots good for threads, but slip on elastic:

The drawings and descriptions of the properties of the knots are taken from L.N. Skryagin’s book “Sea Knots”, and I have tested them practically on an elastic band.

Here are some more photos of bracelets as an example. Using different fittings and beads, we can change the style of the bracelet.

This bracelet uses crystal beads of different sizes, a shaped spacer bead, caps for beads, a pendant holder, a connecting ring and a pendant with a sparkling effect:

In this work, polymer beads Natasha beads, crystal beads, bead caps and spacer beads with spirals:

These simple bracelets have minimal details. Striped resin beads and wooden beads. With purple beads I used 6 mm uncut glass beads.

Bracelet with a rose pendant, crystal beads, polymer beads decorated with caps for jewelry. The rosette is attached to the bail using a connecting ring.

To complete the collection, I will add a link to another master class. How to stretch an elastic band inside a long hollow tube. Follow the link for description. Briefly, a loop of jewelry cable or wire is inserted inside the bracelet, a soft elastic band is hooked into it, and when the cable is pulled out, the rubber band is also removed from the other side.

Elastic tapes in tailoring are used to tighten fabric, form gathers and fix part of the product in a certain place. In many cases, elastic bands are preferable to ribbons or cords threaded into a drawstring. With them, the gathered part of the product can instantly stretch and contract back to its original shape, no need to fuss with ties. The material to which the elastic is sewn retains the folds of the desired shape; they do not need to be constantly straightened. Therefore, even beginners need to know how to sew elastic to different parts of clothing - this is one of the key tailoring skills.

Elastic materials are divided into two main types. The first is traditional underwear elastic bands of varying degrees of softness. They differ in width, shape, and the presence of decor (ruffles, lace). Such tapes can be sewn both manually and on machines, household and industrial. The second type is stretchable threads, which are pulled from a rubber synthetic mass and sold in spools. The elastic base in them is covered with cotton fibers in a spiral. Threads are used primarily when sewing on a machine, but you can also work with them using a crochet hook - on mesh fabrics.

There are general operating rules for all types of elastic bands.

You cannot break the rubber “ties” inside the tape, so you need to sew carefully along it, watching the needle - otherwise the product will be deformed.
The needle is placed so that it passes between the elastic threads along the fabric “layer”. Therefore, in their work, craftsmen often use a zigzag stitch that does not affect the central base fibers.
When sewing on the elastic, you need to make sure that the tension is uniform along the entire length and that the folds are the same everywhere.

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Where are rubber bands used?

Elastic inserts in prominent places are used mainly on women's and children's clothing. In men's clothing, they are rather needed for cuffs, shaping the bottom of trouser legs and shoulder clothing in a street-sports style. Most often, elastic bands are inserted along the cut line of the neckline and sleeve caps in products with open shoulders. The thick tape holds the item securely on the figure and forms beautiful folds on the chest and upper arms. It is used to design blouses, tunics, dresses made of airy or flowing fabric.

Elastic bands are often sewn onto:

chest (in several rows) - a section completely stitched with elastic bands secures the clothes, you don’t even have to make straps;
part of the back at chest level - the elastic also runs in several rows, serves for a better fit of the product (the front part is designed in a different way);
level under the chest - this is how an empire-type silhouette is formed, with a beautifully defined bust and freely flowing folds underneath;
sleeves - elastic sewn into the cuff or at shoulder level helps create impressive volume;
waist - neatly outlines a line, forms lush folds above and below it, does not require tightening and fastening, unlike belts and sewn-in zippers;
hips - this way you can create an allowance that hides the belly or creates soft waves above the gather line.

If you combine several elastic bands on a blouse - on the sleeves, shoulders, waist - you can create an elegant model in the “Peisan” style. Vertical stitching with elastic on a dress or top is needed when creating transverse drapery. There are many options for using elastic tape, as well as ways to attach it to fabric.

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Simple ways to sew in elastic bands

If you don't know how to sew elastic to fabric on a machine, you can practice with the simplest stitches. Among all their types, a zigzag is best suited for fixing elastic threads and ribbons. It is simple, can be easily “imitated” by hand sewing (if you don’t have equipment) and does not require long training. Zigzag stitching is provided on almost all household machines, regardless of the year of manufacture. With its help, you can evenly secure the part without making marks or fixing it with pins.

Most often, zigzag seams are used when creating products from stretchy materials (for example, gymnastic leotards, bodysuits). With them, the tape does not curl or deform when used in clothing, and retains its elasticity for a long time. You need to be able to choose the right length, since if you make a mistake, you will have to rip off the entire piece for a long time.

The elastic should be slightly shorter than the length of the cut to which it is sewn. This way the finished product will not be too tight on the body. You need to wrap a long piece of tape around an area on your figure (arms, waist, hips) and select the optimal degree of tension “experimentally.” The required amount is cut off - it will need to be cut into two equal parts, one of which will serve as a standard for sewing.

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Progress

Take a long piece of tape and sew a wide zigzag seam behind the edge.
On a piece of tape along the width of the finished item, select a stitch with a sufficiently wide pitch. It is necessary that the needle does not pass through the elastic connections, but a couple of millimeters from them (the tape will move freely inside the seam).
After the entire segment has been stitched, place a second “reference” piece of elastic next to it and make two marks on it.
Pull part of the elastic under the seam so that the marks placed are flush with the edges of the item. Sew on the endings.

The ribbon can be sewn manually in a similar way - the hand will repeat the movements of the machine needle. A zigzag stitch can also be used when working with rubberized threads - they are also placed under it, reducing the stitch width.

Elastic under the drawstring

Elastic bands can be secured not under a zigzag stitch, but under a special strip of fabric that is sewn over them. The width of the drawstring is selected according to the size of the elastic - you need to have enough space for it and for seam allowances. This is a simple method that can be done on all household machines.

Progress

You need to measure the line along which the elastic will be sewn and cut the fabric according to this value. The fabric is sewn to the line of the tape - so that an improvised pipe is formed.
One end of the tape is sewn to the entrance to the “pipe” so that it does not slip inside.
The tape is pierced with a pin and pulled through the drawstring, collecting and distributing the fabric along the part.
Sew the second end of the elastic to the end of the drawstring.

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The rubberized insert sewn at the ends will not bunch up inside the drawstring. Thanks to the sewn fabric, the rigid tape does not rub the skin. The technology is suitable for sewing children's clothing. With the help of a drawstring, you can avoid “bubbles” and unwanted folds: the elastic passes freely inside, and you can form the gathers to your liking. The method is not entirely suitable for working with elastic threads - there are other options for them.

Sewing rubber threads in a spool

Stretch threads, sold in spools, are sewn into products using a machine with a simple stitch. The material is wound onto a bobbin with a slight tension - its final degree is “tightened” already during operation. In addition to elastic bands, you will need ordinary non-elastic threads, which are tucked over the stretchable ones with relaxation.

If you don’t have the skill to do this kind of work, it’s better to practice in advance on a piece of technical fabric. You can choose the right tension - so that on the wrong side a regular thread is formed into small loops. Then the rubberized material will not be pressed against the fabric, but will lie freely inside the rings. To sew in threads, you need to stitch from the beginning to the end of an area on the product, and then pull the elastic thread to make it tight.

The simple stitch used for sewing is also suitable for basting elastic in individual areas. A conditional division is performed on the item and the tape, and each fragment is sewn so that the tension is uniform along the entire length. Elastic parts are attached manually in the same way.

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tacking elastic bands under tension

The method is especially suitable for products with a complex “structure”, in which gatherings and folds need to be done only on individual parts - for example, at the waist of a dress. To ensure that the folds and the degree of tension are uniform across all areas, first draw a line along which the stretch strip will run. You can draw directly on the material with chalk or pencil. The length of the elastic is determined and wrapped around the body with a degree of tension that is comfortable for you. The piece cut off after measurement is divided into two strips: one will go along the front of the dress, and the second will remain for the back. Since the parts are shorter than the half-circumference at the waist, they will have to be sewn under tension. After fastening, they will “gather” the material into beautiful folds.

The sewing line is divided into several sections. Their length is selected so that you can comfortably take the fragment with two fingers - according to the distance from the bent thumb to the straightened index finger. The ends of the sections can be marked with chalk or pencil.

Progress

The marks are transferred to a stretched elastic strip.
The tape is pulled along the sewing line, pressing its edge, and the marks are copied onto the fabric.
Sew the marks through the tape and fabric.
Release the fabric and manually stitch along the marks.
Sew sections along the basted stitches so that the fastening is secure.

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The next stage is stitching the product with an elastic band fixed in sections on the machine. You can use a simple or zigzag stitch. The product is placed under the foot along the fastening line, with the fingers of one hand stretching the section between the sewn fragments. Loose fabric and stretched tape must be stitched along the length of the segment. The next section is stretched without lifting the foot so that the stitches do not move.

In a similar way, elastic bands are attached manually, stretching them on the edge of the table and sewing them under tension. This method is best used on variegated or textured fabrics, so that the most uneven ones are not noticeable, and small deviations hide the folds of the material.

A donka with a rubber shock absorber is a type of tackle that can be used equally effectively when catching both peaceful and predatory fish species. Fishing with a rubber band allows you to fish for crucian carp, pike perch, roach, blue bream and other fish from our reservoirs. This is a simple equipment and any angler can assemble it from scrap materials.

Fishing with an elastic band is very simple. It does not require any thorough knowledge and skills from the fisherman. A donka with a rubber shock absorber is a simple old-fashioned tackle that is still considered effective today. Many fishermen still love to catch crucian carp with it and do not recognize other methods of catching it.

The elastic band makes it possible to fish at almost any distance from the shore.

This is very convenient and provides ample opportunities for the fisherman. In addition, it can be used as a stationary tackle by installing it once, and then only changing baits and removing fish. Many experienced fishermen who constantly live near the river always install one or two donks in promising places for the entire season and always have a good catch.

How to make

You can make an elastic band with your own hands from simple and inexpensive materials that can be easily purchased at any fishing or hardware store.

This gear has the following device:

main line;
rubber shock absorber;
leashes with hooks;
sinker tied on a nylon cord (allowed without it);
reel or reel for storing and ;
(bell).

So, monofilament with a diameter of 0.40–0.50 mm is used as the main fishing line. When catching small fish, such as crucian carp or perch, you can take a monofilament line 0.20–0.25 mm in diameter. The length of the working cord depends on the fishing range, but it is advisable to have several tens of meters in reserve.

Leashes are also knitted from monofilament. Only their diameter should be slightly smaller than the main line. This is done so that in the event of a possible snag, only this element breaks off, and the tackle itself survives.

The length of the leashes varies from 10 cm to a meter. It all depends on the mood of the fish, the bait used and the actual fishing conditions (spit or hole, with or without current). The hook is tied to the intended bait.

It is advisable to have equipment with different characteristics in stock, which will allow you to quickly adapt.

The elastic band is selected to have a round cross-section. The length of the shock absorber ranges from 5 to 20 meters, depending on the fishing distance. It usually stretches four to five times, which should be taken into account when choosing its length.

For loading, either a brick or stone, or a lead sinker is used. The weight of the sinker is determined by the presence of current, the hardness of the bottom and the fishing distance. A meter of thick fishing line or nylon cord is tied to the load, which is then connected to an elastic band.

A bell is usually used as a bite alarm. In “field” conditions, you can use an ordinary twig. If the donka is stationary for several days, and the fisherman comes to check it only periodically, then it would be correct to do without this element, so as not to attract unnecessary attention to the unattended gear.

To wind the tackle, you can use homemade wooden or foam reels, or you can buy factory ones made of plastic. Less commonly used is an inertial reel attached to a short fishing rod.

When fishing at long distances with a large load, when it is impossible to cast the tackle from the shore and you have to use a boat, it is also necessary to equip the elastic with a foam plastic float. It is tied to a load with a rope or thick fishing line. Such a buoy shows the location of the sinker so that you don’t have to look for it at the end of the fishing trip.

How to tie an elastic band with fishing line

There are several ways to connect the main line with an elastic band:

tie the fishing line and shock absorber to the swivel;
using fishing knots;
using a rubber tube.

The last method is very original and is somewhat similar to a “loop-to-loop” connection:

A silicone tube up to five cm long is placed on the end of the elastic band, and a loop is tied so that the tube is inside the loop.
Then the main fishing line is threaded into the tube and a loop is also knitted.

That's it, the connection is ready. It is very simple, reliable and can withstand loads of up to a kilogram.

Which cargo is better

Of course, it is advisable to have a lead sinker. Its shape should allow the equipment to be securely fixed at one point. Most often, ring-shaped weights with notches along the perimeter are used. This type is great for currents and hard bottoms.

Other models can be used in calm waters. The main thing is that when removing the gear from the water, the elastic band cannot move this anchor from its place. If lead is not at hand, then ordinary brick or stone will do.

About leashes

When catching peaceful fish, leashes are made from monofilament. Their length is selected based on the mood of the fish and the presence of current. In passive fishing they are usually longer than in active fishing. They are made especially long when catching pelagic fish: sabrefish, blue bream and other species.

It is advisable to catch predatory fish with metal leashes. This way you can avoid cutting the bait. To do this, use thick monofilament fishing line, folded in half, or fluorocarbon.

Who to catch

You can use a rubber band to catch any fish that lives in our waters. By combining and alternating baits, installing the bottom in different places, changing the length of the leashes, the angler can radically change unsuccessful fishing and catch a sufficient number of fish at the end of the fishing.

If you break it down by season, fishing for rubber donkey is possible with the following fish:

Spring – sabrefish, roach, silver bream, bleak, bluegill.
Summer – bream, crucian carp, roach, bluefish, pike perch, pike, catfish, silver bream, perch and bleak.
Autumn – roach, pike, pike perch, bream, bluegill.

The construction of a donkey for each type of fish, of course, requires its own approach both in choosing a place, and regarding the bait used, and the length of the leashes.

Fishing for crucian carp with a rubber band is very popular. In this case, a heavy sinker is not required, since fishing is carried out in shallow lakes and quarries without a current. The advantage of this gear is the ability to deliver several different baits into the water at once, which is very helpful when hunting for capricious picky fish who sort through baits and lures, changing their preferences several times a day.

Fishing for crucian carp with an elastic band also allows you to reach trophy fish from a long distance, which are afraid to come close to the shore, thanks to the work of the shock absorber, it can also tire out a strong opponent.

Crucian carp can be caught well from the end of spring and throughout the summer.

Of the predators, one can note the fanged one. This is the most interesting thing to catch with such tackle. Fishing for pike perch using rubber bands is carried out along steep banks. In this case, heavy sinkers are used, but the bottom tackle does not require long casting.

It is better to leave the donka with an elastic band overnight, and in the morning check and remove the caught predators. Burbot is often found in the bycatch, especially in the cold season.

Nozzles

The range of baits used when fishing with rubber bands is very large. Both bait and plant baits are used, and live bait is used. The most popular of them are the following:

worm;
bloodworm;
live bait;
canned corn;
maggot;
boiled potatoes;
canned peas;
dough;
caddisfly and larvae of other semi-aquatic insects;
crayfish meat;
frog;
bread.

And this is not all the bait. In fact, you can hook any bait or attachment used in the fishing area by local fishermen onto a rubber donkey hook.

Fishing technique

The process of fishing with an elastic band is quite simple and can be described in several steps:

First, the donk with an elastic band is unwound on the shore and laid out so that its elements do not get mixed up with each other.
Then the equipment is thrown into the water. If the load is too heavy or the fishing is carried out at a long distance, then the sinker is brought to the desired place on the boat, lowered into the water and a float is tied to it.
Afterwards, they pull the leashes out of the water and equip them with the necessary baits.
Then the leashes are released into the water, the fishing line is tightened and a bite alarm is installed.

Now all that remains is to wait for the bite and get the fish. Usually, hooking is not required when fishing with elastic bands, since the fish are self-hooking.