Pattern base for knitting a skirt. Step-by-step instructions for beginners on how to create a straight skirt pattern. A bold choice for true fashionistas

This article provides the construction of pattern drawings for several styles of skirts at once. These are such popular styles among all women as a straight classic skirt (pencil skirt), a half-sun skirt cut on an oblique, and the widest skirt model at the bottom - a circle skirt. Recommendations are given for constructing a pattern for a flared skirt consisting of several wedges, as well as advice on how to calculate and place tucks on the pleated skirt.

Measurements for creating a pattern and fabric consumption

To create a drawing, you will need to take only three measurements: waist circumference; hip girth; skirt length. But keep in mind that their half values ​​are used to construct the drawing, except for length measurements. Half measurements of the waist and hips are designated St, Sat, respectively, half waist and hip girth.
To make the skirt pattern as accurate as possible, you need to take these measurements correctly, so if you have any difficulties, you can see the site’s article How to take measurements for a dress. It shows in detail and clearly how to take measurements for a skirt.

Do not forget that when sewing any clothes, when constructing a drawing of the pattern details, it is necessary to make allowances for loose fit in the calculations, which in these calculations are designated Pt, Pb, etc.

The fabric consumption for sewing a skirt depends, first of all, on the volume of the hips and, secondly, on the chosen style of the skirt. So girls whose hips exceed 130 cm will have to buy two lengths of fabric even for sewing a straight skirt. Up to 130cm, one skirt length plus allowances for hem and waistband is sufficient. As for the style of the skirt, for example, a circle skirt may require 5 meters of fabric with a width of 150cm. Be prepared for this, and you will find out more accurate fabric consumption when you create a skirt pattern.

To construct the drawing of this straight pattern, the following measurements were used: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 54cm. Increases Pt = 1cm, Pb = 1cm.

Before you start building a pattern, prepare paper, pencils, a ruler, a felt-tip pen, tape and scissors. The pencil should be soft, a felt-tip pen is useful for marking dots and main lines, and tape is convenient to use for gluing paper. See How to make a pattern and other tips for beginners.

To create a straight skirt pattern, it is convenient to use graph paper. The paper grid allows you to quickly and accurately draw basic lines. You can use another type of paper (tracing paper), but in any case, first build a right angle with the vertex T.

Hip line level for typical and similar individual figures: TB = 19.5 cm.
Bottom line level TN = Di = 54cm. From the obtained points T, H, B, horizontal lines are drawn at a distance of 53 cm and points T1, H1, B1 are placed. This distance is determined by the formula Sb + Pb = 52 + 1 = 53 cm.

Now the pattern mesh needs to be divided in half, into the front of the skirt and the back. The vertical line passes through point B2, calculated by the formula BB2 = (Sb + Pb)/2 - 1 = 25.5 cm.
For full figures with a large belly, the back and front panels of the skirt are designed to be the same width.

From point T2, set aside 1-1.5 cm upward and make a mark. Now you need to set aside 3.5 cm segments from the same point to the left and right and draw the upper part of the side line of both halves of the skirt and the slightly raised part of the waist line with a smooth line.

The amount of darts is calculated using the formula (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri) = (52 - 1) - (38 + 1) = 14cm. This amount is divided by two and two darts will be 7 cm. Moreover, the back dart will be larger than the front in the following proportion: back - 14/3 = 4.7 cm, and front 14/6 = 2.3 cm (4.7 + 2.3 = 7).
The position of the back dart is determined by the formula BB3 = 0.4 x BB2 = 0.4 x 25.5 = 10.2 cm.
The position of the front dart B1B4 = 0.4 x B1B2 = 0.4 x 27.5 = 11cm.
The back dart ends 4-5cm above the hip line, the front dart ends 10cm above the hip line.

The narrowing of the skirt is 1-2 cm, they are evenly placed to the right and left of the H2 point.

For freedom of movement, slits, folds, and slits are often made on the back panel of the skirt. In order for the fold to lie better, the middle line of the back panel is slightly retracted (red outline).

Measurements for drawing a skirt: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 80cm.

Let's consider two options for conical skirts: half-sun and sun. The main difference between such skirts widened towards the bottom is that they form beautiful and soft tails that lie evenly around the circle of the skirt. This effect appears due to the cutting of the fabric along an oblique line.

To create a pattern for such a skirt, it is not necessary to use paper. The pattern of a circle skirt or a circle skirt can be created directly on the fabric. See Semi-sun skirt pattern on fabric.

First, draw a right angle with the vertex at point O. From point O, a segment OT is laid down vertically, equal to the half-waist circumference multiplied by K (coefficient), which is equal for half-sun skirts - 0.64, and for full-sun skirts - 0 ,32.

Circle skirt: OT = 38 x 0.32 = 12.2 cm.
Half-sun skirt: OT = 38 x 0.64 = 24.3 cm.

From point T, a segment TB is laid down vertically, equal to an average of 19.5 cm.
From the same point T, lay down a segment equal to the length of the skirt, and place a point H.
For a half-sun skirt, from point O with radius OT, draw an arc until it intersects with the second side of the right angle at point T1, and with radius equal to OH, draw a bottom line HH1.

The circle skirt is built on a straight line, in the middle of which point O is marked. Coefficient K = 0.32.
Setting aside the segment OT = 0.32 x St = 12.2 cm on a straight line, draw a semicircle TT1 from point O with this radius.
From point T, lay a segment TN equal to the length of the skirt. From point O with a radius equal to OH, draw an arc HH1 - the bottom line.

Skirts cut on the bias must be left hanging for several days so that they stretch and take a permanent shape.
After this, the length of the skirt is adjusted to fit the figure. The bottom of the skirt is leveled from the floor using a ruler.

Pattern construction and modeling of flared skirts (gode)

St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 80cm. Fri = 1cm, Pb = 2cm.

Di = 80 cm is set aside from point T and point H is placed.
From the same point T, a segment TB = 19.5 cm is laid off, which determines the line of the hips. Horizontal lines are drawn through points B, H, T.

Now you need to calculate the width of the wedge along the waist and hips. Most often, these skirts have a tight fit around the waist and hips.
T1T2 = (St + Pb)/n = (38 + 1)/2 = 19.5 cm (for a four-piece skirt), where n is the number of wedges in half size, since the calculation is based on the half-circumference of the hips.

Т1Т2 = (38 + 1)/3 = 12.7 cm (for a six-blade).
On the resulting segments, there should be a point T in the center.

The width of the wedge along the hip line is calculated using the formula: B1B2 = (Sb + Pb)/n = (52 + 2)/3 = 18cm, where BB1 ​​= BB2.

The width of the wedge at the bottom is taken according to the skirt model.
The side line is formed by a smooth line.

The waist line is designed as follows.
Segments TT1 and TT2 are divided in half, and perpendiculars are drawn from these points to the extended sides of the wedge. The waist line is drawn with a smooth line slightly raised at the edges (0.5 - 0.7 cm).
The sides of the wedge are equalized using the TN segment, that is, its sides are equal to the length of this central segment.

To build a wedge for a year skirt, first find a level from which to make an additional expansion.
The sides of the wedge are once again equalized after additional construction of the expanded part of the year-skirt. KN = K2N2 = K1N1.
The wedge of the godet skirt is designed symmetrically with respect to the vertical line of the TN on all parts of the godet skirt.

The pleated skirt pattern has the following measurements: St = 38cm, Sat = 52cm, Di = 54cm, Fri = 1cm, Pb = 3cm. This pattern is suitable for a girl with dimensions and height 164-96-104.
There can be any number of folds. This skirt model has 10 pleats.

In order to determine the distance between the folds along the hip line, it is necessary to make the following calculations:
((Sb + Pb) x 2)/n where n is the number of folds. ((52 + 3)x2)/10 = 110/10 = 11cm.

The distance between the folds along the waist line is determined in the same way:
((St + Fri) x 2)/ n = 7.8 cm.

The depth of the fold at the bottom should be at least 3cm (in this case, let's take 5cm). To prevent the folds from opening, you need to make a 1-2cm bevel on each side of the fold from the hip line to the bottom line.
The longer the length of the skirt, the greater the bevel, the more widened at the bottom this skirt will look.

If the construction of the skirt is carried out directly on the fabric, you can pre-process the bottom of the product. A circle pleated skirt often requires two lengths of fabric. In this case, the stitching seams must be located in the inner fold of the fold.

Construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. From point T, the hip level is plotted vertically: TB = 19.5 cm.
From point T, a segment TN is laid down, which is equal to the length of the product: TN = Di = 54 cm.
Horizontal lines are drawn to the right of points B and H. Line TN - fold line or seam inside the fold.
From point B, lay down the depth of the fold, which is equal to 6 cm (5 cm + 1 cm): BB1 = 6 cm.
Next, set aside the distance between the folds along the hip line: B1B2 = 11cm.
Find the middle of the fold:
B1B11 = B11B2 = B1B2/2 = 11/2 = 5.5 cm.
The middle of the fold coincides with the lobar thread.

A vertical line is drawn through point B11. The intersection with the bottom and waist line is indicated by points H11 and T11.
From point T11 to the right and left, segments are laid equal to: the distance between the folds divided by two. That is, 7.8/2 = 3.9 cm.
Equal segments are laid from point H11: (B1B2/2) + 1 = 5.5 + 1 = 6.5 cm.
The resulting points are connected by straight lines. Next, a segment equal to two fold depths is laid along the hip line, and the entire construction of the skirt pattern is repeated.

Good day, dear readers!

Sooner or later, almost every sewing lover asks the question: “Isn’t it time for me to move to the next level? Shouldn’t I try to... create a pattern on my own?” And, as a rule, to learn this side of clothing making, one begins with a straight skirt pattern.

Fortunately, there is a way to create a skirt pattern quickly, without any special hassles or measurements. And this is exactly what beginners need. The pattern can be created using the method of two of the most famous father and son in the world of sewing - German citizens.

The method is really not complicated, but you still can’t do without measuring the figure for which the pattern will be built. You will need to measure your waist and hips. And, of course, with an eye on fashion trends, decide on the length of the skirt (according to the model, if desired).

For example, I will build a pattern for a conditional figure that has:

Size 46;

Height 168 cm;

From (waist circumference) - 76 cm;

About (hip circumference) – 100 cm.

Loose fit allowances:

waist + 1 cm,

along the hips + 1 cm.

The right and left sides of the figure of an ordinary person are almost perfectly symmetrical, therefore, it is customary to build patterns for half the figure.

So, from the point 1 to the point 3 construct a vertical segment. Line segment 1 — 3 this is the length of the skirt and at the same time the line of the middle of the front panel.

In the direction from the point 1 set the hip height down. Size of the segment 1 — 2 can be obtained by subtracting from the Length of the back from the seventh cervical vertebra to the most prominent point of the hips, the Length of the back to the waist. The average height of the hips according to Müller is 20 - 22 cm. Let's stop at 21 cm - the arithmetic average of these two numbers.

To the right of the point 2 set aside a segment equal to half the total circumference of the hips plus an increase for fit of 1 - 2 cm (Hob + (1 - 2 cm)). For a narrow skirt made of thin material, an increase of 1 cm will be just right. (Here is a segment 2 — 4 = 51 cm).

Segments 1 — 8 And 3 — 9 exactly the same as 2 — 4 , in length and in direction.

Line segment 8 — 9 we obtain by connecting the ends of the segments 1 — 8 And 3 — 9 . Line segment 8 — 9 on the finished pattern it will be the line of the middle of the back panel of the skirt (middle of the back).

Segments 1 — 8 And 3 — 9 divide in half. We connect the resulting points with a segment 6 — 7 . Line segment 6 — 7 on the finished pattern will be the side seam line.

From point 6 on the segment 1 — 8 Place a piece 1 - 1.5 cm long vertically upwards (here 1.5 cm). Line segment 6 — 10 This is the height of the rise of the highest point of the side seam above the waistline. The height of the lift depends on the degree of convexity of the hips.

To “deal” with the waistline and darts on it, you must first calculate the difference between the halves of the hips and waist volumes.

Pob + increase (1 cm) = 51 cm.

Sweat + gain (1 cm) = 39 cm.

This means that the difference in volume is 12 cm (51 - 39 = 12). The difference between the width of the hips and the waist must be removed into darts, the total total value of which is the same one obtained by calculation, 12 cm.

These 12 cm are distributed into three darts: side, back and front. The side dart is the largest. It accounts for half of the total difference between Pob and Pot with increases. And another plus 1 cm. In our case it is 12/2 + 1 = 7 cm.

Exactly half the size of the dart should be on both the back and front parts. Therefore, we divide 7 in two, we get 3.5 cm. We put horizontal segments of 3.5 cm in length to the left and right sides of the point 10 .

From the opposite ends of the resulting segments towards the hip line, draw two smooth, symmetrical lines of the side seam.

Points 1 And 8 on the conventional waist line we connect with smooth lines to the tops of the side seams. And thus we “find” the true waist line on the back and front parts of the skirt.

Let's now build the back dart.

Divide the drawn arc (waist line on the back half) in half.

From the point on the arc (waist line) vertically down, straight along the auxiliary line, set aside the length of the dart 13 - 15 cm. (Here 14 cm). The end of the segment is marked with a short line – a mark.

Along the waistline to the sides, to the left and to the right of the intended point, we set aside two segments (the solution of the back dart). The back dart solution accounts for 60% of what is left of 12 cm (the difference between the volumes of the hips and waist with increases). Let me remind you that 7 cm was spent on the side dart. 12 - 7 = 5. 5 cm are distributed between the back and front darts. 60% of 5 cm should go to the back dart. In our case it is 3 cm.

The length of both segments should be the same. Therefore, we divide 3 by 2 and it turns out that the length of the set aside segments should be 1.5 cm.

We connect the opposite ends of the resulting segments to a point (top of the dart) on the auxiliary line.

After all the “manipulations” done, the rise of the dart above the conventional waist line should be something around 3 mm.

Those who are not new to this matter! Don’t rush to blame me for the fact that the sides of the darts are not the same. Be patient and still read the article to the end.

Let's now move on to the front half of the skirt and begin constructing the front dart.

From the top on the side seam line we set aside 6 - 8 cm (here 7 cm).

From the resulting point we lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips.

From the same point on the waist line down along the auxiliary perpendicular we set off the length of the front dart (9 - 10 cm). (Here 9.5 cm).

And again, from the point on the waist line to the sides, to the right and to the left, we set aside segments of the same length - the width of the dart opening.

After all the above, we were left with a 2 cm difference in volume that was “unattached”. Let me remind you that 7 out of 12 cm is a side dart, 3 out of 5 is a back dart.

Half of 2 is 1 cm. That’s exactly 1 cm long and there should be pieces set aside.

We connect the opposite ends of the set aside segments to a point (the top of the front dart) on the auxiliary line.

Without all the auxiliary lines and points, the skirt pattern looks like this.

But don't rush to cut out the darts. You need to leave a little paper around the “entrance” of the dart. The sides of the darts and the waistline should be slightly adjusted.

We close the darts and turn them towards the lines of the middle of the front and back panels. (They will be in this position on the finished product.)

We straighten the upper part of the skirt parts back. You can even iron the paper slightly to straighten it out again.

When laying out the skirt pattern on the fabric, the skirt panel pattern can be cut along one side of the dart, and the paper can be folded up or down along the other side. By preserving the inner, paper part of the dart in this way, you can simultaneously and without problems transfer the sides of the dart and the complex contour of the dart along the waist line along the entrance to the dart onto the fabric.

Dear sewing lovers! And for those of you who are not entirely satisfied with this method of constructing a skirt pattern, I invite you to read

That's all for today! Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Hello, my dear readers of the blog “site”. Now we will learn how to build straight skirt base.
Earlier in the article about the straight classic skirt, we talked about the fact that if you want to sew a skirt of any models, You cannot do without this knowledge. So let's get down to business.

Don't let the size of the text below scare you. In fact, everything is very simple if you figure it out once. I wish you good luck with this!
This article will be especially useful for beginners sew, as I describe the whole process in great detail. Therefore, if you already have experience, make a discount on it)).
To start building a drawing, we need to take our measurements correctly. Now I take measurements of approximately 44 sizes.

Initial data (cm):
St = 36 Pt =0.5;
Sat = 47 Pb =1;
Dlb = 20;
Dis = 60.

I recommend doing it drawing on graph paper, and not on tracing paper, since it is very convenient to draw on the cells.
You can buy graph paper at any office supply store. It is sold in rolls and sheets. Any option will suit you.
When constructing a drawing, you substitute your measurements.
The skirt is three-seam (two side seams and one middle back).
First, we make a preliminary calculation of the waist grooves.
The difference between St and Sat = (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri) = (47 + 1) - (36 + 0.5) = 11.5.
Rule for distributing the difference:
1. Undercut of the middle seam is 1.5 cm. Find the remainder 11.5-1.5=10. We distribute this remainder to the remaining grooves:
2. Side seam undercut: 1÷2 from the remainder = 1÷2 from 10 = 5; Max side recess 7.5 cm.
3. Undercut of the rear panel (RP): 1÷3 from the remainder = 1÷3 from 10 = 3.3; Max undercut of the seal can be 3.8 cm.
Very important note If the difference between Sat and St is more than 14 cm, then two undercuts are made on the ZP.

Drawing of a straight skirt.

Let's put a point T.
1. TN down-level of the bottom line = Diz = 60;
2. TB down - hip line level = Dlb = 20;
3. From points T, B, H, draw horizontal lines to the right;
4. Grid width: BB1 to the right = Sb + Pb = 47 + 1 = 48. Draw a vertical through point B1 and find points T1 and H1;
5. Side seam position:
Divide BB1 ​​by 2 - this is for standard figures;
Divide BB1 ​​by 2 + (from 0.5 to 1 cm to the right) - this is for figures with protruding buttocks;
Divide BB1 ​​by 2 - (0.5 cm set aside to the left) - this is for figures with a protruding tummy.
Place point B2 and draw a side seam line through it vertically. We put points T2, H2.
6. Side seam dart: T2T3 left = T2T4 right = 1/2 side seam dart = 5/2 = 2.5. We set aside 2.5 cm from point T2 to the right and left. We put points T3 and T4.
From point B2 upward we set aside 2 cm - this is auxiliary point 2. A constant value for all skirts that are built on the basis of a straight line, except for the A-line skirt.
Points T3 and T4 are connected to point 2.
We shape the side cuts under the pattern. We bend the lines by 0.2 cm using a pattern.
7. Tall deflections:
on ZP = 0-2 cm (for protruding buttocks - 0, for flat buttocks - 2 cm), we take 1 cm;
on PP = 0.5 - 1.5 cm (05 - for a small tummy, 1.2 - standard, 1.5 - for a flat stomach), take 1.2 cm.
From point T downwards we set aside the waist deflection of the ZP -1cm. We put point T'.
From point T1 downwards we set aside the waist deflection of the PP - 1.2 cm. Place point T.” We draw up the waist line under the pattern. Connect points T’ and T3. There should be a right angle at point T'. We connect points T2 and T.” At point T there must also be a right angle.
8. Undercut of the middle seam on the seam: from point T’ should be set aside 1.5 cm to the right. Connect point 1.5 with a straight line to point B.
9. Groove ZP: Divide the line between points 1.5 and T3 by 2. And draw a vertical line through point 2 - the center line of the groove. From point 2 we put 3.3÷2 = 1.7 cm to the right and left.
The undercut on the waistband is sewn up as an independent element, so it must be shortened above the hip line by 4 to 6 cm.
by 4 cm - for flat buttocks;
by 6 cm - for convex buttocks.
We align the sides of the groove along the larger side, bring the left side of the groove to point 1.5 under the pattern.
10. PP undercut.
Divide the line between points T and T4 by 2.
And as in the ZP, we draw a center line through point 2 vertically to the line of the hips. From point 2 we put 1.7÷2 = 0.9 cm to the right and left.
The PP undercut is also sewn up as an independent element, so we build it with a length of 10 - 12 cm. Along the center line we set aside 12 cm from top to bottom.
We equalize the sides of the groove on the larger side and bring the right side under the pattern to the T point.”
11. If the skirt is BELOW the knees, then to maintain a straight silhouette, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by 1 cm on each side.
We set aside 1 cm from point H2 to the right and left and connect these points with straight lines to point B2.
12. The skirt is located at the natural waistline and is decorated with a split belt, so you need to cut off half the width of the belt from the drawing.
For example, the width of the belt is 3 cm. We set aside 1.5 cm from the top of the skirt and shade it, i.e. cut it off. Marked in yellow on the drawing.
13. On the ZP, you need to place the control point of the fastener 2 cm above point B2.
If the skirt is built at a low waistline, then the control point of the fastener is 2 cm below point B2.
14. On the ZP we mark the control point of the cut. From point H upward we set aside 18 cm.
15. Belt.
The belt is a rectangle 3 cm wide. In cutting 3 × 2 + 2 cm allowances = 8 cm,
Length = length (St + Fri) × 2 + 2 cm allowances + clasp opening 3 cm = (36 + 0.5) × 2 + 2 + 3 = 78 cm.

Layout on fabric:

Allowances are 1 cm at the top, 1.5 cm at the sides, 3 cm at the bottom. The grain of the fabric is marked with an arrow in the drawing.
We cut out the parts of the PP and ZP or transfer them to tracing paper.
We transfer the pattern to the fabric, taking into account the allowances.
And we begin to SEW a straight skirt.

Watch a very good video about how to make a straight skirt pattern directly on the fabric:

I hope it was easy for you to master all this, which means there are great prospects ahead! I wish you good luck and see you soon on the pages of the blog “Sheisomnaya.rf”

A product such as a narrow straight skirt made of wool or some other dense fabric is always relevant. Depending on the fashion, it can be worn in combination with a blouse or jumper.

3:9

Based on the drawing of a classic skirt, you can make patterns for all straight skirts(with tucks, wraparound, pleated, pleated, corrugated, yoke, embossed, etc.).

Therefore, the basis of a skirt is the very first thing you need to learn if you want to succeed in cutting and sewing.

To construct the base of the skirt you will need the following measurements (in cm):

See how to take measurements correctly
PoT (38);
PoB (53);
Du (72);
Dp (70);
Ds (71);
DST (42).

It is also necessary to make increases for a loose fit (in cm):

- PT (this is an increase along the waist line) - 1 centimeter;
- PB (this is an increase along the hips) - 2 centimeters.

Let's start building the base of the skirt:

4:9

• We start from the line of the middle of the rear panel. Skirt base

Place a point T in the upper left corner of the sheet. Draw a vertical line down from it.

• Bottom line. Skirt base

For the bottom line, from the T point along the line in the middle of the back panel, set aside a segment that is equal to the length of the skirt at the back from the waist. Label the resulting point with the letter H and draw a horizontal line from it to the right.

• The next step in constructing the base of a straight skirt: the hip line

To do this, from point T in the middle of the back panel, set aside a segment, the length of which should be equal to half the length of the back to the waist, and you need to subtract 1 cm (in this case, 21 cm). Label the resulting point with the letter B and draw a horizontal line from it
to the right.

• The line of the middle of the front panel. Skirt base

Now, from point B along the hip line, we will set aside a segment equal to the half-circumference of the hips with an allowance for freedom of fit along our hip line.

Place point B1 and draw a vertical line through it. At its intersection with the bottom line, place point H1. Up from point H1, lay a vertical segment equal to the length of the front. Label the resulting point with the letter T1.

• Side cut line. Skirt base

To the right of point B, along the line of the hips, you need to set aside a segment equal to half the half-circumference of the hips with an increase for a loose fit and you need to subtract 0.5-1 cm. Place point B2 and draw a vertical line through it. We will denote the point of its intersection with the bottom line by the letter H2. And from point H2 upward, set aside a vertical segment equal to the length of the skirt. Label the resulting point with the letter T2.
You can shift the line of the side cuts towards the back or front panel. But if you are going to sew a skirt of a small size or wider at the bottom, it is better that the width of the panels be the same.

• Front and rear panels. And the waist line. Skirt base

Using a ruler, connect the T points to T2 and T1.

• Darts. Skirt base

The pattern of a straight two-seam skirt involves three darts.

And at the same time, the sum of the dart solutions should be equal to the difference between the width of the finished product along the hip line and its width along the waist line (in this case

B = (Pob + Pb) - (Pot + Pt) = (53 + 2) - (38 + 1) = 16 cm).

So, the solution of the side dart should be equal to half the sum of the solutions of all darts.

And to the right and left of our point T2, set aside a segment equal to half the solution (4 cm), and place points t and t1, respectively. And using a ruler, connect these points with auxiliary lines to point B2 and divide each of the resulting segments in half. From the division points, restore perpendiculars inside the darts (the length of each perpendicular is 0.5-1 cm).

Then connect t, t1 with a point located about 1-2 centimes from the hip line. You should get smooth concave lines with a bend at the points of 0.5-1 centimeter.

The back dart opening should be equal to 1/3 of the sum of all dart openings.

And to the right of point T, set aside a horizontal segment equal to 1/4 of the half-circumference of the hips and minus 2 cm (that is, 11 cm). Label the resulting point t2. Down vertically from this point, draw an auxiliary line to the line of your hips, and to the right and left of it set aside 2.7 cm (half of the dart solution). Use a smooth concave line to connect the points 2.7 centimes. with a point located approximately 3-4 centimeters above the hip line.

The opening of the front dart should be equal to 1/6 of the sum of the openings of all darts.

To the left of point T1, set aside a horizontal segment equal to 1/4 of the half-circumference of the hips and minus 1 centimeter. Place point T3 and draw an auxiliary line from it to the hip line. Set aside 1.7 cm to the right and left of point T3 (half the tuck solution). Connect the resulting points with a point located 6-8 centimeters above the hip line using a ruler.

• Side cuts. Skirt base.

If you are going to sew a completely straight skirt, the width of the back panel along your hemline should be equal to the width along your hips.

You can also make the skirt a little wider. In this case, the width of the back panel of the skirt along the bottom line should be 2-6 centimeters greater than the width along the hip line.

Guided by this rule, place point H3 at a distance of 2-6 centimes. to the right of point H2 and connect it to point B2 using a ruler (in the case of a straight skirt, connect point B2 to point H2).

The width of our front panel along the bottom line of our straight skirt should also be equal to the width along the hip line, if slightly wider, 3-4 centimeters more. To the left of point H2 along the bottom line, set aside 3-4 cm, place point H4 and use a ruler to connect it to point B2.

• The top section of the base of the skirt. Skirt base.

Design it with a slight bend with the dart closed.

If the width of the fabric you choose is 140cm, One skirt length plus 5-8 centimeters will be enough.
With fabric width 80-100 cm you will need two skirt lengths and another 10-15 cm.

Fold the material lengthwise with the right side facing inward. Lay out the patterns of the back and front panels with the middles facing the fold of the fabric
Make seam allowances and hem allowances. Please note that the clasp (16-20 cm) should be located on the left side.
Mark the darts on the seam allowance at our top edge with vertical lines. Place a copy stitch along the contour lines of the pattern.

Cutting a straight two-seam skirt:

cutting details:
a - rear panel;
b - front panel, respectively;
c - an extra allowance to decorate the top edge with corsage braid.

Mark the middle of the front and back panels with slip stitches. Then baste the darts. Pin the side sections together and sweep them away. At the same time, of course, do not forget that on the left side you need to leave 16-20 cm for the fastener.

Baste a corsage braid to the top edge (you can use a belt). After the first fitting, any changes in fit should be noted. Stitch the darts. At the end, bring the stitches back to nothing and press up the resulting slack in the fabric.

Stitch and overcast the side seams. After this, process the fastener and the top edge, and hem the bottom. Then iron the garment and sew on the hooks and loops.

5:9 5:13 5:23

Watch a short video from designer Olga Nikishicheva on how to sew a straight skirt with your own hands without a pattern.

When constructing the drawing, a unified methodology for constructing clothing from the Central Scientific Research Institute of Shipping was used.

Initial data

To construct a drawing of the base of a straight skirt, the following measurements and additions are necessary:

S t- half waist circumference;

C b- semi-circumference of the hips;

D ts- back length to waist;

D TB- distance from waist to hips (for low hips);

D joint- distance from the waist line to the floor in front;

D Sat- distance from the waist line to the floor on the side;

D NW- distance from the waist line to the floor at the back;

D yu- skirt length;

P t- increase in waist circumference;

P b- increase in hip circumference;

In addition, we find the level of the lower edge of the skirt. For this from the measure D Sat subtract the length of the skirt D yu. Subtract the resulting value from the measurements D joint And D NW, we obtain, accordingly, the measures D usp(front length of skirt) and D yusz(back length of skirt).

Constructing a basic drawing grid

The construction of a basic drawing begins with the construction of a basic mesh.

The size of the base mesh corresponds to the dimensions of the side surface of the skirt from the middle back to the middle front line.

We build a right angle with the vertex at point T. Down from it we put the length of the skirt at the back vertically D yusz. We get point N.

Determine the line of the hips. The hip line for a skirt is usually 18-20 cm down from the waist line, with a smaller value for short figures, and a larger value for tall figures.

TB = 0.5 * D ts - 2

TB = D TB.

For figures with low hips we use the measurement D TB.

We plot the TB value vertically down from point T and set point B.

Through points T and B to the right we draw horizontal lines - the waist line and the hip line, respectively.

Skirt width at hips: BB 1 = C b + P b. We lay this segment horizontally to the right of point B.

The position of the lateral line is determined by the segment BB 2, which is laid horizontally to the right of point B:

BB 2 = ( C b + P b)/2 - 1.

The position of the back and front darts is determined by the segments BB 3 and B 1 B 4:

BB 3 = 0.4 * BB 2;

B 1 B 4 = 0.4 * B 1 B 2.

Segment BB 3 is laid horizontally to the right of point B. Segment B 1 B 4 is laid horizontally to the left of point B 1.

Through points B 3, B 2, B 4, B 1, vertical lines are drawn up until they intersect with the waist line at points T 3, T 2, T 4 and T 1.

The verticals through points B 1 and B 2 continue down until they intersect with the horizontal at points H 1 and H 2.

Calculation and construction of the base drawing

(To view an enlarged drawing in a separate window, click on the drawing with the mouse).

First of all, let’s clarify the position of the waist line by determining the location of points T 20 and T 10.

From point H 2 vertically upward we set aside the measurement D yu. We set point T 20. From point H 1 vertically upward we lay down the measurement D usp. We put point T 10.

We connect points T, T 20, T 10 with straight lines. This broken line is the refined waist line.

We extend the verticals of the back and front darts upward until they intersect with the refined waist line at points T 30 and T 40.

We determine the total solution of darts along the waist line.

∑ darts = ( C b + P b) - (S t + P t).

The direction of the darts, their size and quantity depend on the physique and characteristics of the customer’s figure. For typical figures, it is customary to design three darts: back, side and front.

In this construction we will focus on a typical figure.

The side dart is placed on the side line. In general, the value of ∑ darts is distributed as follows: rear dart solution 0.35 ∑ darts, front dart solution 0.15 ∑ darts, side dart solution 0.5 ∑ darts.

To construct the sides of the darts along the waistline from points T 30, T 40 and T 20, we set aside half the solution of the rear, front and side darts to the right and left, respectively. Length of darts: back 15-17 cm, front 10-12 cm, side 17-20. If we are building a skirt with side seams, then the top of the side dart should lie on the hip line and coincide with point B 2. We set the length of the darts from points T 30, T 40 and T 20 down vertically.

Align the sides of the darts with the larger side. We design the side dart with smooth lines, the back and front with straight lines. We design the waist line with a smooth curve with closed darts.

If we expand the straight skirt somewhat along the bottom line, then we draw the side line from the vertical to the right and left from point B 2 to points H 21 and H 22.

H 2 H 21 = H 2 H 22 = 1 - 6 cm.

The lower end of the dart, point B 2, is connected to points H 21 and H 22.

If a straight skirt is designed with a seam or fold in the middle, then draw the line of the middle of the rear panel through points B and T 0 in a straight line until it intersects with the bottom line at point H 0, and draw the line of the middle of the front panel through points T 11 and B 1 in a straight line to intersection with the bottom line at point H 10:

TT 0 = T 10 T 11 = 0.5 - 1 cm.

In this case, we equalize the length of the lines:

B 1 N 1 = B 1 N 10.

This is necessary so that the slot or fold in the finished product does not diverge. It is clear that if the skirt has, for example, only a slot in the middle of the back panel, and the front panel is cut out in one piece, the above indentations should be made only in the middle of the back panel of the skirt.

We design the bottom line with smooth curves. We draw a clear line around the contours of the back and front panels of the skirt.

To see calculation example to construct a drawing of a straight skirt, and also - get a quote based on your own measurements.

In preparing this article, materials from the book “Designing Clothing” by the authors E.K. Amirov, O.V. Sakulin, B.S. Sakulin, A.T. were used. Trukhanova, Moscow, Publishing Center "Academy", 2006.