Cover the jacket with new fabric. What to make a jacket for the winter from? What to make a down jacket from? shirt alteration ideas

It's noticeably colder outside, it's time to warm up. In this article, we’ll look at how to sew a women’s down jacket with your own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add a few unique elements that will make our product exclusive.

Let's take as a basis the oversized style, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a collar-hood.

Materials and tools

The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not allow moisture to pass through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes fumes and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness and increased water and steam resistance properties.

ATTENTION! If you plan to wear a jacket in conditions of high humidity, it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.

Classic down jackets use waterfowl down as filler., as it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff will never stick together or mat, since human sweat and skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a novice dressmaker to sew a jacket with such filling, and it is not cheap, so we will focus on the simplest option - padding polyester.

For sewing the lining we choose polyester- synthetic knitted fabric that looks like wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, antistatic and practically wrinkle-free.

From the accessories we will need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a clasp.

Standard set of tools:

• sewing machine;
• overlock;
• scissors;
• tape measure;
• graph paper;
• pencil;
• needles, pins.

Down jacket pattern

The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we take a minimum of measurements:

• down jacket length;
• back width;
• armhole height;
• the length of the sleeve

IMPORTANT! When taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately include an increase in the freedom of fit. For outerwear it is about 8 cm.

We build a pattern drawing

• We put down the width of the collar 25–30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. At the level of the collar we draw a horizontal line. From the top left point to the right we set aside a width that is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the wrap (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
• Mark the central axis. We will place armholes at an equal distance from it, 5 cm wide and 25–30 cm high.
• To construct the sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or tapered. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the sleeve head rounded.

Cutting materials

• We cut out the main part from the outer material and padding polyester.
• Additionally, from the same fabric we cut two parts for the lining and one for the collar.
• We cut out the sleeves directly from the outer fabric, lining and padding polyester.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.

Stages of sewing a down jacket

• Sections of parts from outer and lining fabrics we process it on an overlocker or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
• Fold the main rectangle with the additional detail of the gate face to face, baste, and then grind down them on a sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two edgings on the sides.
• Let's move on to cutting out the lining for the main part. We cut a rectangle of such a size as to fill the space on the wrong side between the ribs and the collar.
• Carefully put padding polyester inside, matching the corners.
• On the front side, using a soap remnant, we outline the stitch lines along which we will quilt the fabric. To prevent the stitches from moving apart, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we stitch (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, padding polyester, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + padding polyester.

ATTENTION! To prevent the padding polyester from slipping on the fabric, you should initially sew it around the perimeter. Since the fabric turns out to be quite dense, it is more advisable to use a walking or Teflon foot on a sewing machine.

• The same way quilt the sleeves. When applying padding polyester to the sleeves, you need to retreat 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the bottom seam allowance, because it is intended to be folded inward and connected to the lining.
• We machine sew the shoulder seams. To prevent the down jacket from slipping off your shoulders in the future, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm from each other and insert a cord into them, which will be tightened around the neck. You can take the lace ready-made, but it is better to sew it from the main fabric.
• Sew the side seams of the sleeve from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the wrong side, then we sew down the side seam of the sleeve lining. Place the lining and main sleeve face to face and sew the bottom edges. Turn it inside out and insert the lining inside. Then he turns the cuff inward, bastes, irons and places a decorative seam along the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
• We sew the sleeves into the “body” of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the edges and connect them to the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and baste them so that a small fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the sleeve part.
• Sew in the main part of the lining. To do this, we place the main part with the padding polyester facing up and connect it to the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
• We turn the down jacket inside out through the bottom edge and pin it, baste it, and then We machine sew the lining to the main material. We make a line about 10 cm short of the middle. On the other side we do the same operations. Turn the jacket inside out. Fold and iron the middle. Using safety pins, we fix the unstitched area and stitch it manually with hidden ties. The lining is sewn.
• Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
• In addition to the buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it directly onto the fabric. The width of the belt part, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue the back side with non-woven fabric or double-lined fabric. We sew short sections from the inside. Turn it inside out and iron it. We make a hem along the long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm and iron it. We baste and lay a decorative stitch along the front side at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge.

Description of appearance:

Women's insulated down jacket coat with a central side fastener with a zipper and six buttons. Coat with a cocoon silhouette, with a curved hem, length below the knee line. A shelf with a dart-undercut from the side seam, in which a pocket with a finishing flap is processed. The back is one-piece. Single-seam set-in sleeve. The collar is a stand-up collar, fastened with buttons. Down jacket with a removable hood fastened with a zipper. The hood can be decorated with a “fur trim”.

Difficulty level: not difficult, but takes time and patience

Technical drawing of the model:

Structural additions to this model: to chest circumference 20 cm, to waist circumference 32 cm; to hip circumference 15-18 cm.

Material recommendations: the main material is from the group of raincoat fabrics, plain; insulation - (artificial (synthetic winterizer) or mixed layer with natural additives (cotton, sheep or camel wool) or their substitutes (bamboo, swan's down) surface density - 200-300 g/m2. Lining material - based on viscose fibers and threads in color combination or contrast with the main material.

Pattern sample:

* PRINTING ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:

When printing patterns in A4 format, open Adobe Reader and check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck "Fit to page size") in the print settings.

Note the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the printing scale is set correctly on your printer. Before printing the entire pattern, print out a sheet with a red square and measure it. 10cm sides? This means you can print the remaining sheets of the pattern. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale of your printer. Otherwise, the pattern will not print correctly.

After printing all the pattern pages, glue them together in the order shown: the letters (A/B/C+) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row. The first (top left) pattern sheet will have the number A01.

*PRINTING ON A PLOTTER:

When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the Poster print mode under Page Sizing and Handling. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Cutting Marks, Shortcuts, and Split Large Pages Only.

The following designations are used on the pattern:

Parts Specification

Main material

Back - 1 piece

Right shelf – 1 piece

Left shelf – 1 piece

Collar – 2 parts

Part of the right hem – 1 piece

Sleeve – 2 parts

Hood – 2 parts

Hood insert – 1 piece

Hood facing – 1 piece

Strap for attaching the hood – 1 piece

Top stand – 1 piece

Lower stand – 1 piece

Back neck facing – 1 piece

Hemming of the bottom line of the back - 1 piece

Facing the bottom line of the shelf - 2 parts

Pocket flap – 4 parts

Burlap (lining) pocket – 4 parts

Lining material

Back – 1 piece (with fold)

Shelf – 1 piece

Sleeve – 2 parts

Hood lining – 2 parts

Hood insert – 1 piece

Attention! When cutting parts, it is necessary to add seam allowances along all sections of 1.5 cm. The allowance for processing the lower cut of the sleeves depends on whether you will bend the sleeves and form them from the allowance for processing the cuffs. If the lining material strictly matches the color of the main one and along the bottom of the sleeve you decide to sew a finishing line and leave the sleeves without turn-down cuffs, then the processing allowance is 1.5 - 3.5 cm.

Approximate consumption of base material 3.0-4.0 meters (depending on size and height), with a canvas width of 150 cm.

Attention! The figure shows the arrangement of parts on the canvas for size/height – 44/170 cm.

To make a down jacket you will also need:

- lining material – 2.0 – 2.5 m;

Detachable zipper – 70-85 cm, depending on height;

Insulation - 2.5 - 3.5 m, depending on its width and the size and height of the product;

Buttons – 8 (9) pieces;

The zipper for attaching the hood is 35-45 cm, depending on the size (you need to measure the length of the lower cut of the hood part - 2 parts + insert);

Fur trim for a hood made of natural or faux fur.

Technological sequence of processing

1. Baste all the parts cut from the base material onto the insulation. Apply a pattern quilting stitch to all pieces on the right side of the material.

Attention! In the store you can find special felt-tip pens or crayons that are removed after heat treatment. You can apply a design, and after quilting, remove the lines with a warm iron.

Attention! To simplify the process of quilting the base material with insulation, try gluing it. Yes! I use a simple glue stick. I lightly lubricate the edges of the parts of the main material with glue from the wrong side, lay the insulation on it, press it and leave it for 5 minutes. You can also spot lubricate the material along the quilting lines. Don't overdo it! First try on lunges that will remain from cutting. Believe me, it really is easier this way.

2.Sew the quilting stitch according to the design. Stitch length is 0.4-0.5 cm (Fig. 1).

Attention! Do not tighten the thread, and if possible, use a walking foot.

Process the pockets on the shelves as shown in Fig. 2 and fig. 3.

Stitch the flap with the lining, turn the flap right side out and stitch the seam allowances of the flap stitching onto the lining;

Place the pockets you made on the shelf (Fig. 2), according to the control marks, and stitch the valve and burlap parts of the pocket to the shelf in sequence;

Stitch the topstitch seam allowances onto the lining;

Sew the burlap pocket pieces

Sew darts on the shelf in the area before and after the entry line into the pocket

Sew the front and back along the shoulder sections. Press seam allowances.

Sew the front and back of the coat along the side edges. Press seam allowances.

Determine the length of the strap by the length of the zipper. Stitch the sides of the zipper placket and iron it in half.

Baste and stitch the strip on the front side of the product along the neckline, strictly in the middle relative to the middle of the back, aligning the cuts;

Stitch one side of the zipper along the stitching edge of the placket

Stitch the front hem line and the back hem line along the sides. It is better to iron the seam allowances

Attention! Ironing operations must be treated very carefully. The process of ironing seams should not lead to flattening of the insulation.

Prepare the collar.

The collar assembly algorithm is classic and practically no different from processing the stand-up collar of a jacket:

Stitch the top post to the bottom along the edge, turn it right side out, sweep the edge and iron it.

Sew the top collar into the neck of the down jacket. Press the seam allowances onto the collar.

Process the fastener.

The design of the clasp is also quite simple. The right shelf is wider than the left by the width of the bar. The bar is designed for attaching buttons. A hem is sewn along the edge of the bar on the inside and one side of the zipper is inserted into this seam. The second side of the zipper is inserted into the stitching seam of the side edge of the left shelf (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4

- stitch one side of the zipper tape to the hem along the inner cut (line 1);

- stitch the bar to the hem (line 2);

- stitch the facing of the back neckline to the hems along the side edges;

- sew the lower stand into the hem and facing of the back neckline;

- grind the edge of the right flange with a hem, while simultaneously grinding the side of the collar;

Vera Olkhovskaya

To sew a down jacket or a warm jacket, we need three types of fabric and applied materials:

• raincoat fabric - fabric for the “top”;
• lining – fabric for the reverse side;
• insulation – fabric for laying between the “top” and the back.
• tape for sealing seams;
• zippers;
• buttons;
• laces, end caps and drawstring fasteners.

How to choose fabric for the “top” of a down jacket or jacket if you sew it yourself

There are many fabrics available for jackets.

For example, raincoat fabric “Canada”, raincoat fabric “Alaska”, raincoat fabric “Gloria”, duspo, raincoat fabric memory, cotton memory, raincoat fabric “milk” printed and plain, raincoat fabric on knitwear, memory “prince”, parka “Canada”, raincoat fabric melange , bologna, taffeta raincoat, gabardine raincoat, taslan... The list of fabrics can be continued.

Almost everything is suitable for sewing down jackets, and here you need to be guided, rather, by your own taste and idea of ​​what you want to get in the end, rather than by recommendations.

The most important component of raincoat fabric is its water-repellent properties, which can be achieved either by impregnation with latex or polyurethane, or by melting the top layer of the fabric.

Examples include barrier, gloria, and bologna fabrics, which protect from both moisture and wind. These are good materials, but they do not allow air to pass through, which makes products made from them not always comfortable to wear.

Therefore, it is important to look for membrane-coated fabrics. Membrane materials can be two-layer or three-layer – the latter are more expensive.

Fabrics that are breathable but not waterproof are less common. An example is taslan fabric; besides, taslan dries very quickly. It is made with various impregnations.

To simplify the cutting and sewing process, you can buy a “raincoat fabric already quilted on padding polyester” or even a “raincoat fabric quilted with a lining” for a jacket or down jacket. Despite the obvious advantages, here we may encounter both the disadvantages of stitching and the inability to choose one of the fabrics separately.

From such sandwich fabrics it is better to sew laconic products, the open sections of which are easy to edge.

How to choose a lining for a jacket or down jacket

Lining fabrics also come in a wide variety. In order not to “spread the thought on the tree,” let’s define the main types of lining fabric suitable for sewing down jackets, parkas or jackets:

• sliding;
• non-slip;
• quilted with insulation;
• and fur.

With sliding linings, everything is more or less clear - these are thin fabrics made of synthetic, natural or mixed fibers. They can be either plain-painted or printed. Remember that a pure silk lining can shrink every wash, therefore, such fabric must be wetted before cutting and make sufficient reserves and allowances, anticipating this very shrinkage.

Sliding pads are called differently. Often the name of the fabric depends on the nature of the weave. For example, satin, satin, diagonal. The linings are also jacquard, that is, their threads are intertwined in some complex pattern.

The names can also be based on the composition of the fabric. For example, polyester, viscose, nylon, silk.

You can use cotton or wool flannel or flannel as a non-slip lining. If the fabric is completely natural, then do not forget about future significant shrinkage.

And remember, if the lining does not slip, it can only be used in large-volume products - oversized, trapezoid, cocoon.

Fleece can be a good option for a non-slip lining - it washes well, does not shrink, is breathable and retains heat well.

The lining, quilted with insulation, in turn, also has several varieties. There are two main ones - the stitching seam is made with threads or it is a thermal stitch. Quilted lining on padding polyester is more common. Despite the obvious advantages of this lining, there are, of course, disadvantages.

The main disadvantage is the inability to select materials individually. For thread quilting, the disadvantage may be large, easy to unravel stitches, and for thermal quilting, it can be stiff.

Fur lining, as you guessed, can be artificial or natural.

Natural fur is an expensive pleasure, requiring skills and subtle understanding in choosing. As for faux fur, the main criteria should be the softness of the knitted base of the fur and the short length of the pile.

Do not confuse faux fur and footer with “fur” fleece - they have different densities of the knitted base, and the fur is different.

If you bought a “fur” footer instead of fur, you can make a lining out of it in the form of a vest or with sleeves, and put the down jacket itself on a regular lining.

Insulation materials that are found and can be used for sewing at home

Pooh

If you are sewing a down jacket with down, you may need thick fabric for the cover so that the down jacket can be machine washed. The cover with down can be removed from the down jacket by first removing the down “quilt” from it, if such an option is provided during sewing. This is convenient when washing.

When buying down, you need to understand that it cannot be 100% down; there will also be small feathers among it. But the higher the quality of the down, the fewer feathers.

If you collect down yourself or buy it in the countryside, do not forget to disinfect it before sewing the down jacket. This can be done in a workshop where pillows are restored.

The best down is goose down, and no frost is scary with it if it is covered with a membrane raincoat on top.

When using natural fluff, you must remember that it can cause allergies, especially in children.

Bio-fluff Sustans

Bio-down is a bio-based insulation, which is patented in the USA. It has all the properties of down, but is hypoallergenic, more durable and holds its shape better. However, it is rare and expensive.

Holofiber

Holofiber, polyfiber, fiberskin, isosoft and similar polyester insulation materials can be considered analogues of down in terms of thermal insulation properties. You can also use them to sew inexpensive jackets and down jackets, stuff pillows and children's toys.

It tolerates machine washing perfectly, and together with the “membrane” it can withstand any frost.

The only drawback is the release form - balls - you have to work with it like fluff.

A similar material can be called primaloft - it is very soft, but resistant to deformation. It was used to sew warm clothing for the American army.

Wool

Natural wool insulation made from sheep or goat hair is also good and does not cause allergic reactions, but they strongly absorb moisture and have a noticeable weight compared to synthetics.

They require dry cleaning as they shrink greatly when washed.

Because of these shortcomings, the popularity of wool batting is low today. But wool is often added to synthetic fibers.

Mixed insulation retains heat well even at minus 25 and can withstand delicate machine washing.

Alpaca, llama, Angora and Kashmir goat wool fibers are used for sewing and knitting clothes.

Batting

Today it is rarely used, but in some cases batting is indispensable. The composition of the batting can be either pure wool or half-woolen with the addition of cotton or synthetic fibers.

Of the obvious advantages, it can be noted that the batting holds its shape and heat well, but it is still quite heavy and, absorbing moisture, becomes even heavier.

Sintepooh

Perhaps one of the most common insulation materials for clothing. Synthetic down is also called artificial swan down. It is produced in varying degrees of hardness and thickness. The roll width is 150 cm, and the thickness is indicated by the numbers 100, 120, 150, 200, 300.

The number indicates how many grams of material are per square meter.

To roughly estimate the thickness by numbers, “one hundred” is a fairly thin synthetic down, for demi-season products or for separate quilting of the “top” and lining, 150 is medium thickness, all-season, and “three hundred” is thick, winter.

Of course, you can also add a second thin layer to medium and thick insulation, but this is already a technology. Let's return to materials science.

Thinsulate

Another artificial down, which is considered one of the most elastic, light and warm insulating materials. Manufacturers claim that Thinsulate is warmer than natural down. But it is very expensive and therefore has not caught on with us.

Sintepon

It has a wide range of applications, wear-resistant, light and soft. The old padding polyester was relatively dense, but the new one has hollow fibers and has become better at retaining heat.

The main disadvantage is its lack of elasticity - it loses its thickness with wear and washing, and is also not suitable for very cold winters. The limit of padding polyester is minus 10 degrees.

The second name for padding polyester is silicone.

The thickness is also determined by numbers from 50 to 600 g/m2, width - 150 cm.

Hollosoft

Light and springy material, similar to Thinsulate. Its fibers are hollow and spiral-shaped. Hollosoft springs well and retains heat remarkably well.

It can be used for sewing quilted items, for example, for a down jacket or a warm vest with a fur trim.

Thermoloft

Another lightweight elastic insulation material that is suitable for sewing jackets and parkas, as well as overalls and down jackets. Density-thickness from 80 to 250 g/m2.

Sherstopon

Even from the name it is clear that this is a mixture of synthetic and natural fibers. It is made with the addition of sheep and camel wool.

Thickness and density are determined by numbers from 100 to 250 g/m2, width – 150 cm.

Sherstopon is used both for sewing clothes and for making sleeping bags and quilts.

Slimtex

Thin and fairly dense insulation, which is suitable for sewing jackets, coats, raincoats and fur coats, as well as for ski trousers and overalls. Slimtex is also used for sewing blankets, making shoes and hats.

This is a synthetic non-woven material, the density of which is also determined by weight from 100 to 250. Width - 150 cm.

Slimtex is a good choice for sewing winter overalls.

Hello! My name is Sasha Sanochki and I run the Second Street blog, dedicated to stylish and creative clothing alterations. Every day I publish 5 new materials on this topic.

It was not I who personally made all these alterations without exception. But for almost two years every day, I get up at 5 am to find (before work) 5 fresh and interesting ideas for remaking clothes from old to stylish, translate them, process all the photos, making them in the same style, write a post and publish it . In two years, exactly 3,000 of them accumulated.

Every day, in search of materials, I scroll through about 4,000 sites in the reader, and only a third of their materials relate to handmade or fashion - I find the rest of the ideas in gossip columns, style com, films, music videos and even magazines like Forbes sometimes. I just want to collect it all in one place.

I would like to show you at least a few of the 3,000 ideas accumulated on the site over 2 years:

I decided to choose only 5 ideas for each of the popular types of clothing alterations over the past month, because it’s difficult to choose from 3000 equally interesting ones). And I tried to choose those that can be shown here without dragging in a bunch of photos with master classes

So, here we go:

5 ideas for altering T-shirts

1. Alteration of the vest:

I love alterations of vests). It couldn’t be simpler: a vest + a bowl of dipping paint. Looks unrealistically cool).

2. Playing with the texture of the T-shirt:

A long cotton T-shirt can be cut into circles, then washed at high temperature - the sections will curl and will not “creep” (just don’t wring it out in the machine!). Wear with a dress or leggings and a T-shirt.

3. How to tag a guy:

TeenVogue and designer Erin Fetherston give you an idea: smear your lips with acrylic paint (yuck, yuck, yeah) - and boldly leave a mark right on the collar of his T-shirt or shirt. After drying, all that remains is to iron it with the hottest possible iron - and your bookplate is on it forever. IMHO, it doesn’t look very good on women’s clothing:

...and for men - that’s it). A sweet idea for faithful and gentle lovers and a hot/playful idea for notorious machos).

4. Shirt and T-shirt dress:

What does it mean to combine beautifully)) - take a closer look - the dress is actually a mix of shirts and T-shirts cut and sewn together.

5. T-shirt - blinds:

Tutorial on how to remake two T-shirts into a sort of “blinds” T-shirt for $48 from Anthropologie - can be found on the site, it's too detailed to copy.

5 ideas for jeans alterations

1. Piece Jeans:

I think this fit would be difficult to achieve if they were actually sewn together from pieces. So, most likely, these are thin summer jeans, onto which pieces of other summer and thin ones that match in shades have been sewn. And then they cut off the bottom layer in places. In my opinion, there are only a couple of places where the main fabric up to the knees on top was actually replaced in some area with another.

2. Ulyana Kim dress:

A very beautiful combination of two types of jeans!

3. Isabel Marant Painted Jeans:

Painted jeans idea by Isabel Marant – Permanent marker in hand - and go!

4. Reworking a men's T-shirt and jeans:

Listen, well, in my opinion, this is just wildly cool! Something really interesting and wearable for guys. And for girls too. I think that you can decorate both a bag and the back of a jacket with belts in this way.

As a bonus to the picture, here’s a slightly rocker way to slightly increase the length of your jeans or save those that are frayed at the knees). Although with old, stretched and worn out jeans, I think it will look pathetic.

It’s better to use both ideas if HE decides to quit his career as an office plankton and finally become a rock musician. For the first concerts - that’s it).

5. Teddy bear made from old jeans. Just a bear):

5 ideas for shoe alterations:

1. Men's creative business shoes:

It happened, yes, it happened 5 times already. But in this case I liked the execution - on strict men's shoes. With a business suit and tie, it should break the mold of impressionable partners. You say goodbye after the meeting, they come out from the table to shake your hand - and when they see the shoes, they hang out)….

2.Shredded Converse:

Shredded Converse – the famous model of sneakers - legends of the Converse family, released last year and ideally suited for the hot summer of 2010). They look desperately vintage - shabby, as if crumbling as they go. Ideal for delicate girlish dresses, relaxed knitwear, denim mini-shorts and skinny jeans. They have become an unusual and stylish alternative to the uniform of Moscow streets - ballet flats, gladiator sandals and high-heeled webbed sandals.

Next summer is promised to be just as stuffy, so it makes sense not to throw away your old sneakers, but to repeat this “trick” on your own - at the same time you will save $80 (regular Converse costs from $40, and the Shredded model, which is in the photo - $120).

Everything is quite simple, take nail scissors and go ahead, so below I will list just a few “essential” tips from the source (links to all sources are in the entries on the site):

1. When cutting rectangles between the blocks, make sure not to cut the rectangle behind the leg, at the heel. There should remain a dense rectangular section intended by the manufacturer - it is this that will ultimately hold back the entire structure.

2. Converse sells these models with or without a tongue, depending on the color. Decide what is more convenient for you. If you decide to cut it, draw the same semicircle around your fingers (the same depth) as on your favorite ballet shoes - and cut boldly. It should be 1-1.5 cm wide - wider than the “rubber nose” of a sneaker. It will look like this:

3. It’s convenient to make a “tear” along the cuts simply with your fingers. Rub the edges thoroughly between your fingers as shown in the photo below. The lining of Converse frays more than the top colored thick fabric - so it’s better not to rub it, just the top colorful layer - it will quickly fray to the width of the top layer.

3. How to decorate men's shoes with spikes, but nobly:

In this case, the shoes alone (especially if there’s a casual jacket on top) would completely captivate me.

4. Painting shoes with markers and paints:

A great idea for shoe decoration from artist Deborah Thomson. Deborah uses popular techniques with tattoo designs on shoes, and paints wedding shoes, etc. and so on.

5. Shoes with painted soles:

An original move is to paint not the shoes themselves, but only their soles. It doesn’t bend as much as shoe socks, for example, which means the paint in these places won’t crack. Provided you have a high heel, you will be able to see well. For example, I always notice untorn yellow price tags on shoes in these places when I follow someone along the path)).

5 dress alteration ideas

1. Designer: the back of a sports T-shirt and a sexy dress:

I think it's very cool! From the front, you’re probably a standard “sexy kitten” – and when you turn your back, you show the world the other side of yourself – sporty and perky). And the difference in color only emphasizes this.

The jumper on top - in my opinion, looks like a strap from a cheap sports backpack)).

2. Dress with slits:

Beautiful texture and a way to revive an old dress by throwing a second one on top. On the top dress, if it is made of acetate silk, the design can be “burned out” with a standard wood burner. At school we used to burn out entire lace collars for each other during handicraft lessons.

3. Glowing paints:

Remember, earlier at VDNKh, for example, in the Culture pavilion, luminous paints for fabric were sold in departments with various luminous nonsense? In small round plastic tubes. In addition, they are often found in various stalls, especially for some reason near the station).

This is what you get if you paint clothes with them:

One of my friends used these tubes (of different colors) to paint a dress with a paisley pattern with such luminous colors. I simply placed dots of different colors along the contours of different cucumbers. Since during the day this paint is translucent, and the color she chose (and the dress is colorful) - during the day it was completely unnoticeable. And at night it was a bomb! It looked very even - not at all vulgar, as elegant as possible - apparently due to the subtlety of the design.

4. Decorate a simple dress:

A zebra is not a zebra, a mask is not a mask... in general, this is how, with the help of appliqué, an ordinary white trapeze dress was given an almost mystical look.

5. NedoBeckham reworked a Joseph Altuzarra turtleneck dress.

A new up-and-coming designer is Jezzef Altuzarra and his idea (he clearly sympathizes with Victoria Beckham and her models) to remake the sweater dress:

You will need:
Cotton jersey turtleneck dress (they used American Apparel).
Two shoulder pads.
Scissors, needles and threads.

The recipe for “feeling a little Vicky” is simple:

We cut off the sleeves so as to leave the “wings” at a slight angle.

Using the remnants of the sleeves, we cover the overhead “hangers” on one side.

We hem them on the inside of the dress, at the same time slightly bending the edges.

5 ideas for altering jackets

1. This jacket costs $410 - and the required quantity of pins costs 500-700 rubles. And every second person has a jacket in the Chanel style;).

2. An idea for remaking a jacket from the 2011 lookbook by Junky Styling designers.

3. Jacket with transparent back:

A jacket with part of the back replaced with a transparent insert. In the show room, the top of the jacket consisted of two parts, one on top of the other: when altering your jacket, you can simply cut it and sew transparent fabric folded inside, sewing it into the side seams:

By the way, did you notice the ribbon decor on the trousers?

4. Another Zara coat:

Zara seems to have finally remembered where they started and started making “edgy” things again. Another Zara coat in my selections is further confirmation of this.

The original reverse side of the collar - usually the leather is sewn there (it also allows you to keep the collar “raised” - for example, that’s the only way I walk). It can be made from a beautiful tie) - it looks like that’s what was done here.

5 shirt alteration ideas:

1. Shirt makeover idea from ASOS.com:

2. Pants - saruel from a shirt:

Alteration of shirts. If everything is clear with the top (everything was cut off at the level of the pockets and elastic) - then an explanation of the fact that how to make pants a la “saruel” from a shirt– see under the cut:

Source material).

Having outlined a semicircle, we sew the collar along it.

We steam the pockets carefully - they will prevent the shirt material from draping plastically.

In the end it should look like this (after you sew up the hole where the collar should be):

The design is adjustable at the waist with a knot).

3. Unusually “stained” shirt:

Ingenious, unusually soiled shirt)! In a bright cage - turquoise - purple - I will definitely repeat it for myself. It will be enough, I think, to dip it 6/8 in black paint on fabric like Dylon (it doesn’t need to be heated, boiled, or other perversions).

4. A neat way to reduce your shirt size:

5. Hybrid:

Hybrid GMO shirts and hoodies from Hussein Chalayan.

5 accessory ideas

1. 0_o suddenly!

Garter chain for stockings.

2. Congenial Clutch:

One of the few easy-to-sew clutch bags, which only benefits from ease of manufacture. And the pattern for such a clutch couldn’t be simpler and is sold in every second store - I just bought croissants at Azbuka Vkusa today, for example) - in a craft bag of the ideal size for this purpose.

3. Ring bracelet:

If you have been proposed to 8 times and you have never returned the ring, you can make a bracelet out of them and wear it proudly, like a savage, a necklace made from the scalps of defeated enemies. Well, kind of like how stars are painted on airplanes for those shot down in battle).

4. Shoulder straps on the coat:

To make leather shoulder straps like this on a coat, all you need is leather from one glove. Another thing is that they need to be “supported” with something - for example, a belt made of leather of the same texture.

5. Bags and backpacks made from leather jackets:

We have written many times about bags made from old leather jackets. But personally, I adore, firstly, backpacks, and secondly, this simplified, a la masculine, style in bags:

I couldn’t even choose what to show you – I liked everything so much! And the prices are quite realistic, not overpriced.

and for a snack - 5 interior ideas:

1. T-shirt rugs:

Laura is a seamstress with over 20 years of experience and great taste. That is why she was able to build a successful business on what many people are trying to make money from: recycling T-shirts from second-hand stores into carpets and rugs.

Laura's rugs always attract attention with their subtle color combinations and original shapes. 20 photos - under the cut (and there you will also find a link to the photo - a master class on crocheting a similar rug - the main thing there is to understand how to hide the ends by tying cut T-shirts together). Laura herself, in my opinion, braids them, after which she painstakingly sews the braids together ( I would like to know what kind of machine or foot she manages to take such thickness). It takes her 3-4 months to make one carpet from T-shirts.

2. How to decorate a wall with old magazines:

Idea for super budget wall decor from Irina: these strips are simply rolled into tubes and flattened magazine pages, glued to a base.

Moreover, you can decorate not only the wall, but also vases in this way:

And photo frames:

3. Bears - pillows made from shirts:

Annika Jermyn sews bears from old shirts, calling them Mister _ below is the individual name of each _ and sells for $75. You can even order from your own shirt. The toys are large - 40 centimeters high and 48 centimeters wide.

4. Pillows with interesting textures:

Handmade sofa cushion with an ingenious texture. For such labor-intensive work, $265 is not a pity.

Although this $110 pillow with a British flag made of leather is no worse.

5. Cool dude, yo! Mr. Ben Venom makes quilts from old T-shirts with heavy metal prints in the same style. For connoisseurs, so to speak).

In general, I invite you all to visit Second Street who are interested in the topic of clothing or interior alterations)).

PS. The last thing is that we have competitions there, participate with your ideas, the prizes will be good)!